Idaho’s Cultivation, Cuisine, and Contribution to the Great War
Idaho farming, food prices, and food conservation were influenced tremendously by the First World War. In the small communities of Southeast Idaho, banquets were held commemorating patriotism, Red Cross work became a priority for women‘s clubs, and organized relief efforts were in effect by sending care packages overseas. These care packages contained daily necessities such as food and clothing.
Young men, who worked on the family farm or were hired hands for other farmers, left to “fight for the stars and stripes,” leaving farms vulnerable to failure for lack of workers.[1] Pool halls and saloons were closed during the day, under Idaho Governor Moses Alexander‘s direction, to redirect men toward farm work. Some men were arrested for evading such labor. The shortage of labor was a problem, not only in Idaho, but around the country as noted in a write up titled, War and Service. It states, “Labor is scarce- Our men are being called to serve their country- We will not replace those that leave but will ask those who are left to work harder and so do their share.”2 Food was more in demand during the war years resulting in an increase of crop prices. “Wheat prices rose from $0.72 a bushel in 1913 to $1.98 in 1918 and the price of oats and hay doubled.”3 Idahoans, having to cut back on daily commodities for the war effort, were conservative in their food intake and other expenditures as portrayed in a poem.
My Tuesdays are meatless,
My Wednesdays are wheatless,
I’m getting more eatless each day.
My house it is heatless
My bed it is sheetless–
They’ve gone to the Y.M.C.A
The bar-rooms are treatless,
My coffee is sweetless
Each day I get poorer and wiser.
My stockings are footless,
My trousers are seatless,
Gee! Gosh! How I hate the damn Kaiser4
Food conservation continued to be encouraged among the people of Idaho by various means. War food exhibits, promoted by the United States Food Administration, were free to the public and displayed a variety of breads with recipes for the homemakers to follow. Home economic teachers and county chairmen, around the state, worked together in their local high schools to make the classrooms available to women in their communities. In these classrooms, they could make “victory bread” and other conservation foods.5 Victory bread consisted of 80% wheat and 20% substitute filler such as barley, corn meal, rye, rice flour, oat flour, peanut flour, bean flour, potato flour, sweet potato flour and buckwheat flour. Conserving wheat allowed Idahoans to share it worldwide in war torn countries.
The Union Pacific depot, in Pocatello, opened up in 1914 and the occasion was celebrated by most of the city’s residents. Harvested grain and other commodities could efficiently be exported out of the area to reach the soldiers and Europeans overseas. Imported crops arrived in Idaho as well via the railroad. Some of the food products sold in Southeast Idaho, which were not native to the area, were oranges, lemons, cantaloupes, coffee, and vanilla.6 The railroad was further used to arouse patriotism among Idaho citizens as the original Liberty Bell was toured around the country arriving in Pocatello in July of 1915.
Social banquets continued to be held during the war as a way of bringing awareness to the war effort and acknowledging achievements made by various citizens for the betterment of the soldiers abroad. Several dishes served were commonly known for the time period, but not as familiar in the present day. Many of the dishes had eloquent names, such as Cocktail of Macedoniade Fruit, Bouchee of Sweetbreads with Mushrooms, and Stuffed Royal Squab. The Community Advancement Banquet held in Pocatello on March 17, 1914 had the following on the menu served.
Green Sea Turtle (soup)
Queenelles (poached cream fish)
Gherkins (pickled small cucumbers
Deviled Nuts (nuts seasoned with butter & pepper)
Ermine of Chicken Croquettes (chicken meatballs)
Lemon Butter
Café Noir (coffee with a pinch of salt)
Ice Cream
Cut Cakes7
Almost 70% of Idaho’s population lived on ranches and farms during the war years.8 Clubs were created and organized by women in an effort to serve their communities and for social gatherings as well. Women “earnestly desired to contribute to the life of the community which was new and they wanted to help to make it the kind of community in which they desired to have their children grow up.”9 During the war women, in these local clubs, donated gifts to the soldiers and helped with the Red Cross. The women of the Rigby Study Circle knitted and folded bandages for the Red Cross, and sent packages of homemade candy to the soldiers overseas.10 In 1917, the women of the Utility Club of Ashton made 52 sweaters, 29 pairs of socks, 8 pairs of wristlets, 9 helmets and 13 wash clothes and donated these items to the Red Cross for the war effort.11 Almost all of the meetings of the Mother’s Surprise and Study Club held from 1917 to 1918 were devoted to Red Cross work.12 The women’s clubs also helped their local communities during the war. They prepared and served hot lunches to undernourished school children. They contributed money, earned through fundraisers, to provide college scholarships as well.
– Michelle Hancock
The recipe for Ermine of Chicken Croquettes
Ingredients:
Croquettes
1 cup milk
1 cup chicken broth
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons freshly chopped parsley leaves
Salt, to taste
1/4 pound butter
1 stalk celery, minced
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/4 pounds cooked chicken meat, ground in food processor
Breading
2 cups milk
2 eggs
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 cups all purpose flour
3 cups breadcrumbs
Chicken Gravy
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons all purpose flour
2 cups chicken broth
2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
Pinch pepper and salt
Vegetable oil for frying
Directions:
For the croquette batter: In a heavy pot, heat the milk and chicken broth on the stove and then add the pepper, fresh parsley and salt, if needed. In a separate heavy pot, melt the butter and add the minced celery. Stir in the flour and cook for 3 minutes. Pour in the hot milk and broth and stir until thickened and smooth. Fold in the chicken meat and allow to cool.
Breading the croquettes: Shape 3-ounce portions of croquette batter in the shape of a cone and place on a tray lined with waxed paper. Next make an egg wash from the milk, eggs and salt. Dip the croquettes in the egg wash and then into the flour and let stand a few minutes. Finish breading by dipping the croquettes back in the egg wash and then rolling in breadcrumbs.
For the chicken gravy: Melt the butter in a 1 or 2 quart saucepan, and stir in the flour. Pour in the broth and whisk until smooth. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and cook for 20 minutes. Add the fresh parsley, pepper and salt, to taste.
Cooking the croquettes: Fry the croquettes in a pot with vegetable oil, heated to 350 degrees F, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain well and blot on paper towels. Top each croquette with chicken gravy.8
[1] Lois Fackrell Worlton and William Jack Worlton, Dear Folks At Home (Salt Lake City: [s.n.], 2001), 1. Special Collections and Archives, Eli M. Oboler Library, Idaho State University.
2 [MC 003 Edna M Dubois Collection, Clippings & Ephemera, Box 6, FLDR 5], Special Collections and Archives, Eli M. Oboler Library, Idaho State University.
3 Lois Fackrell Worlton and William Jack Worlton, Dear Folks At Home (Salt Lake City: [s.n.], 2001), 1. Special Collections and Archives, Eli M. Oboler Library, Idaho State University.
4 Lois Fackrell Worlton and William Jack Worlton, Dear Folks At Home (Salt Lake City: [s.n.], 2001), 3. .3 Special Collections and Archives, Eli M. Oboler Library, Idaho State University.
5 [MC 003 Edna M Dubois Collection, General Correspondence, 1918, Box 1, FLDR 1], Special Collections and Archives, Eli M. Oboler Library, Idaho State University.
6 [MC 003 Edna M Dubois Collection, Family Business & Legal, 1914-1916, Box 7, FDLR 3], Special Collections and Archives, Eli M. Oboler Library, Idaho State University.
7 [MC 009 Pocatello Chamber of Commerce Records, Box 08, FLDR 1], Special Collections and Archives, Eli M. Oboler Library, Idaho State University.
8 [MC 008 History of the Rural Club Movement in Idaho, Box 3, FDLR 1], Special Collections and Archives, Eli M. Oboler Library, Idaho State University.
9 Ibid.
10 [MC 008 Brief History of the Rigby Circle, Idaho Federation of Women’s Clubs Rexburg, Box 3, FDLR 1], Special Collections and Archives, Eli M. Oboler Library, Idaho State University.
11 [MC 008 History of the Utility Club of Ashton, Idaho, Idaho Federation of Women‘s Clubs Rexburg [Id] Records, Box 3, FDLR 1], Special Collections and Archives, Eli M. Oboler Library, Idaho State University.
12 [MC 008 M.S. & S. Club History, Idaho, Federation of Women‘s Clubs Rexburg [Id] Records, Box 3, FDLR 1], Special Collections and Archives, Eli M. Oboler Library, Idaho State University.
8 Larry Chum. “Chicken Croquettes.” Food Network. http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/chicken-croquettes-recipe0.